Pearl Types Explained: Freshwater, Saltwater and Shell/Imitation

Why "pearl" covers such different things

A listing that just says "pearl necklace" could mean a genuine cultured pearl grown inside a living oyster over months, or a glass or shell bead coated to look like one for a fraction of the price. Both are legitimately sold as "pearl" jewellery, and neither is a scam as long as it's described correctly — but the price, weight and longevity differ enormously, so it's worth knowing which one you're actually buying.

Saltwater cultured pearls (Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian)

Grown in oysters in the ocean, with a small irritant seeded inside to trigger the nacre coating that becomes the pearl. Akoya pearls are the classic small, round, high-shine white pearl; South Sea and Tahitian pearls are larger and rarer, running from golden to black-green tones. These are the most expensive category by a wide margin because the growing process is slow, labour-intensive and has a high failure rate — a genuine saltwater strand is a real investment piece, not something you'll find at fashion-jewellery prices.

Freshwater cultured pearls

Grown in freshwater mussels, mostly farmed in China, and today the most common type of "real" pearl in affordable jewellery. A single mussel can produce several pearls at once, which is why freshwater pearls cost a fraction of saltwater ones despite being genuinely cultured (living-organism grown, not synthetic). They're rarely perfectly round — expect slightly oval, teardrop or baroque (irregular) shapes, which is now a look people actively seek out rather than a flaw. This is the realistic "real pearl" option at accessible prices.

Shell and imitation pearls

Not pearls at all — a glass, plastic or shell-fragment bead coated in a layer of pearl essence (often made from ground fish scales) to mimic the lustre. This is what most very affordable, perfectly-round, uniformly-sized "pearl" jewellery actually is, including plenty of pieces in this catalogue. There's nothing dishonest about a correctly labelled "shell pearl" or "imitation pearl" — it's simply a different, cheaper product that looks convincing from a normal viewing distance, just don't expect it to behave like the real thing over years of wear.

Quick ways to tell them apart

• Perfect uniformity is a tell. Real cultured pearls (especially freshwater) vary slightly in shape and size along a strand; beads that are all identically round and glossy are almost always imitation.
• The tooth test. Gently rub a pearl against the edge of your front tooth — a real pearl feels slightly gritty from its layered nacle structure, while glass or plastic imitation feels perfectly smooth. Do this carefully and only on a pearl you already own, not in a shop.
• Weight. Genuine pearls feel a little heavier for their size than a hollow or plastic imitation bead of the same diameter.
• The listing wording. "Freshwater pearl" or "cultured pearl" means genuinely grown; "shell pearl", "imitation pearl" or just "pearl-look" means coated bead. If a listing is vague and the price is very low for a large strand, assume imitation.

Which one should you buy?

For everyday styling and layering where you want the pearl look without precious-jewellery pricing, shell/imitation or affordable freshwater pearls are the sensible choice — see our guide on buying from this catalogue safely for how to pick a good listing. For a piece meant to last a lifetime or hold real value, freshwater cultured pearls are the honest "real pearl" middle ground; saltwater varieties are a different, much higher price tier entirely and worth treating as fine jewellery rather than fashion jewellery. Whichever you choose, know which one you're getting before you buy rather than assuming every glossy round bead is the same thing.

Caring for pearls of any type

Pearls — real or imitation — are softer than metal and don't like chemicals: never soak them, and keep perfume, hairspray and lotion away from the strand. Wipe with a soft, slightly damp cloth after wearing and let them dry fully before storing flat rather than hanging, since the silk or nylon most pearls are strung on can stretch over time. Our cleaning guide covers this in more detail alongside every other material in a typical jewellery box.